Influences and transformations in the clothing culture of the Macedonians

In this rather general overview of the Folk Costumes of Macedonia where only the common characteristics of the Folk Costumes of specific ethnic and sections have been presented the complexity of their design, opulence and variety is evident. It has been determined that the Folk Costumes were created in specific geographic and historic conditions within the frames of the entire material and spiritual culture of the Macedonian people. It can be noted that this central part of Balkan the junction between Europe, Asia and the Mediterranean, a crossroad of many ethnic streams and cultures brought about many ethnical symbiosis and cultural interweavings. The Macedonian Folk Costumes created on this territory in the process of transition and acculturation of the acquired cultural elements developed into refined national artistry. The process of ethnic symbiosis and multi layered cultural interweavings contributed to their opulence and diversity.

The traditional Folk Costumes of Macedonia in all the diversity and opulence of clothing items, designs, tailoring, ornamentation and color application, jewelry and other decorative accessories were present for many years under patriarch lifestyle in the organization of grand peasant communions and in product-exchange based economy. They were broadly used and reach their highest peak in the 19^th and early 20^th century. The political, economical and social conditions at the beginning of this century left their mark on the Folk Costumes of almost the whole territory of Macedonia. The Folk Costume represented the ethnic character that is the belong of a social environment, during the time that they were made. The procedure of making the fabric for the clothing items was left entirely up to the peasant woman. By applying traditional technical means and technological procedures she managed to prepare the yarn (wool, linen, thread, cotton) for spinning, dying, weaving and embroidering. Besides this the village costume maker also tailored Folk Costumes. They traveled form village to village with their tools and tailored costumes for men and women for at a certain cost. In the years between the two wars when the industry began to take over the village especially in the 40 –ties the villages sewing machines appear and the city become full of specialized tailors. In the course of the years the production of Folk Costumes is even more related to the city and its clothing style.

The changes that occurred in the traditional way of clothing is first noticed in central and lower Povardarie. These regions open to the south and closely related to Salonika via trade an other merchant relations are amongst the first who began to apply the changes to their traditional costumes accepting the city style.

These changes were felt the most around Salonika, then Gevgelia, Strumitsa, Dojran and even reached the canyon Taorska Klisura. This is how these peasants acquired the status of city folk.

Working abroad (Pecalbarstvo, gurbet) as an economic branch in certain regions of Macedonia and the contacts with cities in and out of the country were also a reason for the changes in the Folk Costume by introducing lighter and more contemporary clothes. The tragic consequences of the Ilinden Rising resulted in major changes in the Folk Costumes. In most of the regions in Macedonia (Prespa, Kostur, Lerin, Prilep, Upper Villages of Bitola, Zheleznik, Kichevia) in this period abandon the Folk Costume – the rich costume of white clothing items, a extravagant light red embroidered decoration and lots of jewelry and is replaced with simple black not very ornamented clothes.

The komiti activities also played a great role in the transformations in the Folk Costume. The revolutionary komiti organized the political and social life and dictated the clothing style of the people. They also forbid the production of the expensive items of the costume and the use of jewelry and any disrespect of this was fined. Thus, the Folk Costume undergoes great transformations and moderation and is significantly modest and less clothing items.

Today, the traditional Folk Costumes are not fully appreciated. The new political, economical and social circumstances, the decline of the family communions and the increasing relations with the city were reflected in the lifestyle of the peasants in the Macedonian villages. As a result of the accented migration village – town many villages situated in the plains and mountains are left without inhabitants. The use of the traditional costume was restricted to certain ritual and ceremonial occasions.