MACEDONIAN FOLK COSTUMES

The Folk Costumes in Macedonia have a tradition of many centuries. They are an integral part of the Macedonian culture and represent a significant branch of the national artistic creations. They were transferred from one generation to the other as a compilation of creations of the Macedonian people. Throughout their evolution they incorporated many elements of various cultural influences, which were present in this part of the Balkan. The clothing style of the Old Slavs who inhabit the Balkan Peninsula in the 5^th and 6^th century complements to the oldest cultural layer - the Ancient Balkan, as well as the traditions of the Ancient Greek civilization. The cultural influences that followed were the Byzantine civilization and the strong predominance of the Turkish – oriental elements as well as the most recent western influences of today.

The Macedonian people participated in the long process of producing the Folk Costumes of Macedonia. They are the mastermind and creator of the Folk Costumes. Diversified historical, social, economic and cultural events have been reflected through their creation. The various cultural influences throughout the centuries have been incorporated in the costumes seen and brought to esthetical perfection through the eyes of the creators/people. This is how the Folk Costumes of Macedonia were created - an expression of the collective, esthetic and psychological disposition of the masses. The geographic – natural settings play a significant role in the creation of the Folk Costumes of Macedonia, besides the cultural and historical conditions and the creative spirit of the people. The alpine mountains, the slopes and the placid valleys, which are characteristic for Macedonia, created specific economic conditions expressed in the life and culture of the people. The culture of the people living in the mountains, whose main occupation was cattle breeding, is distinct to the people living in the plains, whose main occupation was agriculture was distinguished by specific forms, not only in the material but also in the spiritual culture. These two cultures are entwined in many areas, thus creating different forms of a complex culture of clothing and life.

All of these factors which are part of the process of creation of the Folk Costumes in Macedonia and the traditional forms of national clothing played a defining role in the final formation of the many different forms of the national clothing items and national clothing in general. Many epochs and time stones have been expressed in these decorative features. The Folk Costumes are brought to us in all their opulence, expressed in the many clothing items, the decoration style, the ornamented compositions and the application of colors through the preserved exemplars used in the 19^th and the first decades of the 20^th century.

The Folk Costume possesses many other significant meanings besides its primary purpose of protecting the human body in various climatic conditions, as well as embellishing it. Apart from the various mystical and ritual functions, the clothing portrays territorial appertainance, family status as well as various social relations of different generations.

In the course of the extensive evolution and continuous process of maintaining the old traditions by introducing features of the national partiality and beliefs, the Folk Costumes are formed as a distinctive, ethnically differentiating branch of the national creativity. They represent a complex ensemble distinguishable in the harmonious unity of specific clothing items, the style of adornment, the application of colors and ornamentation. The entire composition of the costume conforms not only to its practical function, but also to satisfying the esthetical convictions of its creator. It is from this aspect that each costume represents a complex composition expressed on a fabric, designed in a melange of colors, decorated in various embroidered ornamental motifs and embellished with jewelry and other decoration. There are many costumes on the territory of Macedonia with specific distinguishable features. Each region, each ethnic and divisional sections of Macedonia had its own costume that differed to its neighboring regions in style, function and esthetic features. The ambient factors that contribute to the variety of costumes in Macedonia are the accented craggy land, the valleys that represent individual divisional and ethnic sections, the geographical and transit isolation of specific regions in the past, as well as the development of ethnic characteristics of various ethnic sections. Migrations in the past also contributed to the variety of costumes. The more intense these migrations were depending on the political, economic and social conditions at the time the more emphasized the diversity of the costume. The wealth of the Folk Costumes, the differences of specific clothing items and all the national clothing items are emphasized in the stylistic composition of the costume, the number and variety of clothing items and their adornment. In this sense, western and central Macedonia represent a true mosaic of unique and rare Folk Costumes, especially evident in the female clothing. The costumes worn for religious observances, rituals and festivities are distinguished for their opulence and adornment. Tradition and the people creativity are most perceptible in these costumes.

The Folk Costumes in Macedonia's museums and those exhibited at the manifestation in Struga are priceless documents. They will remain as a testimony of the remarkable creative aptitude of the Macedonian people, who in the course of many centuries succeeded in creating their own Folk Costumes whose features are a depiction of past epochs.